Kiawah Island/ Charleston Gems

Why Kiawah Island is Special

Kiawah has the most natural beaches I have ever seen. It has wide beaches and preserved natural areas. The interior is covered with luscious vegetation and the houses of muted colors blend in. You can rent bikes and leave your car parked for the week, if you are content to stay on the island. Protected bike paths run from one end to the other.

The most special part of my week there was the very close encounter with a group of dolphins. We walked down the beach to the park at the end and soon found dolphins surfing the shoreline for fish. At one point, two actually beached themselves on the sand to catch a fish flying out of the water and could see their glistening pink bellies. What a rare view. After they had their fill of fish, a few hovered near us, peaking at us most curiously.

Local Eats

Renting a house gives you the option to cook some meals during your vacation if you wish. If you go that route, I highly recommend stopping at the Rosebank Farms stand on the way in. Warm weather allows for a long season of produce. This is also a great place to buy fresh fish.

I heard that the resorts have great restaurants, but I did not venture to any of those. I doubt the locals eat there. I opted to treasure hunt in the nearby towns and I did find some jewels in Folly Beach and Charleston.

Head over to Taco Boy in Folly Beach. Look for the funky blue door entrance. Try the very simple and fresh fish tacos. It made me wonder why we don't have these places at home. http://www.tacoboy.net/

For breakfast, you must try Joseph's Restaurant in downtown Charleston. Get there when they open or expect an hour wait. It has to be really good to be worth a wait for breakfast for me, and I was glad I waited. The sweet potato pancakes blew me away (yes, I've had them before, but never this good). And, these people know how to cook grits! They only serve breakfast and lunch. They stick with what they do well and business is good! Rachel Ray has eaten here.  http://www.josephsofcharleston.com/

I've saved the best scoop for last. I found a place called Alluette's Cafe, a soul food restaurant, during my online research before the trip. But I didn't know anything about it. We punched the address in the GPS and headed off. It's in downtown Charleston, so we expected a regular restaurant in the tourist area we're familiar with. But we didn't recognize the direction the GPS led us and it didn't look like the greatest part of town. We arrive at a tiny pink building and wonder if it's really open. We look in the window and it's very curious. No customers, which is usually a terrible sign. My traveling companion gave me a look that clearly said, "I don't know about this".

Still, we had called to make a reservation, assuming any downtown restaurant would be busy on a Saturday night. So we walked in, and found a very friendly chef (a one man show). He told us that he had just pulled foccacia out of the oven. The place smelled wonderful and he brought us some bread as we sat down. Things were looking up. There's a sandwich menu from lunch and a dinner offering of around 4 specials on the chalkboard. But it's flexible, as the chef offered to see if he had some trout in the frig to offer. Then he sat down with us to make friendly conversation and talk about the specials. The experience was very much like having a personal chef at our service. We ordered the grouper with caramelized onions, cooked in wine with a side of okra fried rice. It was perfection.

The focus of this restaurant is holistic soul food and you will certainly taste the love. Be sure to make a reservation. It's required for dinner. The owner and restaurant have been written up in Southern Living and most recently, O Magazine. Reservations may soon be hard to come by. http://www.alluettes.com/

Things to Do

Visit the Charleston Tea Plantation and purchase the only local tea to be found in the US. It is literally the only one. Sample the tea in the gift shop and buy plenty to take home.

Take your dogs to a leash free park on the beach. There are two. They can run to their heart's content.

Saxapahaw Surprise

Saxapahaw is a tiny town between Chapel Hill and Burlington, NC. They have great outdoor concerts and farmer's markets in the summer. Otherwise, there isn't much to be found in this town until recently when the general/ convenience store added a grill. Normally, I would never drive by a place like this and think it was a good idea to stop for dinner. What a surprise. On their website, they claim to be a "little store with a big mission". The general store does a great job of using local and hormone free meats and vegetables. Every night, they have a chalkboard of specials like Asian pork spare ribs with collards and mashed potatoes or salmon with asparagus risotto. They also have an extensive sandwich, salad and pizza menu. I recently tried the "saxy pizza"; a white pizza with artichokes and roasted tomatoes. Delicious. Try breakfast as well. There is always a supply of bakery goods, excellent local coffee and full plates of eggs, biscuits and potatoes.

This is the first place I've tried duck fat fries. If you watch Anthony Bourdain's show on the Travel Channel, you've heard him rave about duck fat fries. As an occasional splurge, try them for the rich flavor that brings out the roasted potato flavor. Not your ordinary fries. You'll see what I mean.

The general store's slogan should be "come as you are and eat well". There's no pretentiousness about this place and it's hard to believe you can find gourmet food in such a location. You'll run into all sorts of people, which is part of the fun. And it's common to hear the chef singing while he works, which is indicative of the happiness ingredient that makes this place successful. This place is definitely off the map and a true locavore's treasure, but it's worth the hunt. http://saxapahawgeneralstore.blogspot.com/

Closer than Paris

I feel lucky to have found this gem of a place. I have no idea why the only authentic artisan European baker in the country landed in Cary, NC, but I am certainly glad. Sure, it's a forty minute drive from my house, but I always say "it's much closer than Paris". I found out about Lionel, the baker, by taking a bread class at Southern Season in Chapel Hill. What a find. Check out LaFarm Bakery's website: http://www.lafarmbakery.com/.

Many others have found it as well. What started out as just a small bread shop expanded into a full bakery with a cafe with awesome breakfast and lunch offerings. It's now packed on the weekends. I highly recommend the french toast. It's the closest thing I've found to the best I ever had (Petunia's in New Orleans). At lunch, you can't go wrong with any of the sandwiches made on the wonderful breads. And there are plenty of sweets to chose from to finish off a savory lunch.

       

            Asparagus & Proscuitto Tartine

Quiche Lorraine with side salad

Croque Monsieur with side salad

If you're feeling adventurous, you can take bread making classes from Lionel at the bakery (LaFarm Bread Classes). You can even find some recipes on his website and blog. But if you're like me, you can use the hands on instruction. It is definitely an art and a skill to be respected. Also, you can buy the natural flour and yeast in bulk for your home baking needs.

I am happy to report that I successfully made a loaf of country French bread at home (from the recipe I received in class). It was a little tricky, didn't result in the most beautiful loaf and my technique needs practice. However, it tasted wonderful. And that's what really counts with home baking anyway.

Revelations in Tuscany

Why Spannocchia is Special

Perhaps this is the place that really started it all for me; this fascination about slow food. I had the chance to visit this centuries old sustainable farm two years ago as a part of Liberal Arts course (http://goglobal.uncg.edu/). Imagine staying in a castle, roaming the land during the day and taking classes in olive oil, wine and honey. Everything you eat is from the farm, with the exception of cheese and maybe bread, but all foods are local and whole. Think of it as a processed food detox. You might never go back, which I would consider a success story.

The Spannocchia experience is open to everyone; not just students. They offer many interesting programs during the year, but you can also simply stay (http://www.spannocchia.com/). The people are warm and obviously committed to the history and mission of the farm. They will give you a tour of the gardens and animals. You will meet the happiest pigs you have ever seen. Watch the basket of produce walk a few feet from the garden to the kitchen and tranformed into fantastic dish on your dinner plate.

On this trip, I began taking pictures of food. I tried to keep a food journal as well, but it was hard to keep up with all of the great food by the end of the week. This was just a simple lunch, but crazy good: bread salad, cabbage and canteloupe.  

I highly recommend taking a cooking class. Here I am with Daniela after we learned to make gnocchi, saltimbocca and tiramisu. Some of the programs offer multiple cooking classes. If you would like to send money, I would be happy to check that out and write a full review (hey, it was worth a shot).

The best souvenir I puchased was their cookbook. You can also buy it online. At the time of the post, they had sold out of the second edition, but will soon offer a third, so stay tuned (http://www.spannocchia.com/shop). I will warn you that you need to read between the lines a little. A few details got lost in translation. Still, you will learn to cook true Tuscan food, which has no resemblence to any American version of Italian cuisine that I have come across.

I finally did it. So, I bought a pasta making machine off of Craig's List at least a year ago. Since then, it had not left the box because I was afraid of impending pasta failure. I'm happy to report that I finally actually made homemade spinach and ricotta ravioli with sage butter sauce. It takes a little time to get a hang of the pasta rolling technique, and I recommend having help until you become a pro, but the end result was well worth the effort. It will melt in your mouth. It's so good you could just serve it with a little olive oil.

Soup-er Delicious

I love soup not only because it is comfort food and a great way to squeeze veggies into your diet, but also because it is super efficient cooking. It always makes plenty of leftovers and I really enjoy having containers of various soups in my freezer to choose from. I consider it essential for lazy week day supers. I start cranking out the soups when my supply of frozen tomato sauce from our garden bounty gives out.

Here are three of the many soup recipes from the Biltmore cookbook.

Sweet Potato Mulligatawny (pg. 95)

With a list of 21 ingredients, this is by far the most complicated soup I've attempted. The prep alone is going to take some time, so don't start this one if you're already hungry. But it is worth the effort. Sweet potatoes, chicken, orange juice, sherry, coconut milk and lime juice are just a few of the stars. I did not expect a soup with the Indian flavors of cumin, curry and coriander seeds in the Biltmore collection, but I found it very interesting. If you prefer a vegetarian soup, there's plenty going on so that if you omit the chicken, you still have a lovely and complex blend of flavors.

Country Chicken Soup (pg. 137)

This soup is made from the classic combination of onions, celery and carrots with the additions of chicken, black-eyed peas, sage and spinach. I'll admit that it turned out tastier than it read on paper. It's always amazing when the simplest recipes turn out to be the best. I questioned the use of chicken bouillon instead of broth because I hardly ever use it. But, it gives you a wonton soup base taste, which seems to go better with these ingredients than a watered down broth flavor.

Truffled Potato and Leek Soup (pg. 138)

This one is made with potatos, leeks, fennel, Chardonay, lemon zest and juice and a few other seasonings. I substitute evaporated milk for the cream to make it a little lighter, but this soup will still almost stand up like mashed potatoes. And you can always count on nutmeg to work its flavor magic. A salad with a citrus vinegrette dressing would compliment it nicely. You meat lovers might add some bacon crumbles on top.

A Biltmore Breakfast

Many of the recipes in the winter section of the Biltmore cookbook are breakfast items. Perhaps that is because the days are shorter and when it is cold outside, who wouldn't rather stay in bed with a delicious breakfast or brunch? They are ultimate comfort foods, after all, no matter what time of day you serve them.

 Pumpkin Pancakes with Toasted Pecan Butter (pg. 160)

These are much tastier than your regular home cooked pancakes; definitely restaurant worthy. The recipe only calls for 1/4 cup of pumpkin, so they are not overly flavored. The special touch is the toasted pecan butter made with a little maple syrup and vanilla. Make the butter ahead so that it has time to chill. In fact, you can prepare that and mix the dry ingredients the night before for faster morning pancakes. I did find out that it's important to thoroughly sift the baking powder so that it does not clump, so don't skip that step.

Chrorizo Bread Pudding with White Chocolate Cheese and Scallions (pg. 147)

Here's another dish you can make ahead. It reheats well. It is heavier than a normal breakfast, so I think it makes a great brunch item. I used foccacia bread instead of croissants, which will be my preference when I make it again. The spongy bread texture works well with the cheese and eggs. If you buy a sausage with spices, adjust or leave out the cayenne pepper that the recipe calls for.

Homemade Cinnamon Rolls (pg. 159)

I can drool just looking at them. This is one of my first bread related ventures, so I was very impressed that they turned out so well. The dough is light and fun to manipulate. You make the dough in a mixer, let it rise, roll it out into a rectangle and brush a cinnamon/ butter/ sugar mixture all over. Then roll it into a log, slice into individual rolls, let rise again and bake. It takes some time, but all really good things do. And it makes your house smell wonderful.

Eat Yourself Silly in Asheville

Why Asheville is Special
In my humble opinion, Asheville is the best city of restaurants in North Carolina. The only trouble I have when I visit (at least twice a year) is fitting in enough of my favorites while still allowing time to try one or two new places that always seem to be popping up or that I just haven't gotten to yet. It's a good thing I don't live there because I might never cook (yes, really). The trend of farm to table restaurants with simple, yet wonderful food at reasonable prices has really taken off here. It's what speaks to me.

There is also a great eclectic vibe in this city. Artists are drawn there. Diversity is the norm. It's a cultural haven in the middle of the Bible belt. The dress is funky casual and you can't tell most people's status by their wardrobes. It's just a cool place to be.

Where to Stay
It's great to stay downtown where you are an easy walking distance to all of the shops and restaurants and don't have to worry about parking. I can recommend the Renaissance (http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/avlbr-renaissance-asheville-hotel/). Rooms are nice and the hotel service is good. I'm excited about a new downtown hotel that I have not had a chance to try yet: Hotel Indigo (http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/). It looks very modern and they are pet friendly (although I have not checked out the associated fees). I have also stayed at the Crowne Plaza (http://www.ashevillecp.com/) specifically because they are pet friendly. It's just a short drive from downtown and it's a tricky route until you get the hang of it. There is a golf course on site in case you're into that.

Local Eats
Go hungry. Take leftovers home with you (plan ahead and pack a cooler). There are so many great choices, that there's no way I'll come close to covering them all in this post, but here are some of my favorites. Sorry I don't have pictures of scrumptious food from my last trip, but check out the individual websites and I guarantee you will be drooling.

Downtown:
The Chocolate Fetish (http://www.chocolatefetish.com/) It's a European style chocolate shop and I always make the time to stop by. These are no ordinary truffles. Try the key lime pie flavor with graham cracker crumbs on the bottom.
Cucina 24 (http://www.cucina24restaurant.com/) Real pasta and authentic Tuscan dishes like wild boar over noodles as a special. Close my eyes and I'm back in Italy unlike most NC "Italian" restaurants.
Early Girl Eatery (http://www.earlygirleatery.com/) This place has loyal followers, especially for breakfast. Be prepared to wait for a table unless you order takeout instead. Breakfast is great, but I really love their lamb, which is from a local farm and very reasonably priced.
Laughing Seed Cafe (http://www.laughingseed.com/) Vegetarian fare. Very good. You won't believe the sloppy jo (even if you don't usually like tofu). Ordering several tapas is also a great meal idea.
Over Easy Cafe (http://www.exploreasheville.com/) A local turned me onto this place and now it's my favorite breakfast spot (not just in Asheville, but anywhere). The coffee is very good and they always have interesting specials as well as omelets, biscuits, pancakes, etc. They also serve lunch and you can order from either menu at any time.
Tupelo Honey Cafe (http://www.tupelohoneycafe.com/) Very well known and loved and it's always crowded. Be prepared to wait, or offer to sit at the bar for quicker seating. This place has been written up quite a bit. The sweet potato pancakes are unbelievable, but really everything on the menu is good.

Beyond Downtown...
Rezaz (http://www.rezaz.com/intro.html) Located in Biltmore Village, Rezaz is one of the best restaurants I've ever experienced. It's a little pricey, but more than worth it. You can not go wrong with anything you order. Top your meal off with a large cup of cappuccino.
Sunny Point Cafe (http://www.sunnypointcafe.com/) This cafe is in West Asheville. Most tourist information won't tell you about it, but the locals know. Great place for a sandwich or salad. A lovely garden right behind the building supplies some of their ingredients. You can't get more fresh and local than that.

Things to Do

• You are going to need some exercise to balance with all of that eating. Luckily, you are right in the middle of the blue ridge mountains. Hop on the parkway for a scenic drive and you will find plenty of places to hike or bike.
• Check out the Asheville Outdoor Center (http://www.paddlewithus.com/) to kayak or raft the French Broad river or rent bicycles.

• A trip to Asheville is not complete without visiting Biltmore Estate (http://www.biltmore.com/). Tour the mansion, visit the winery for some history and a tasting, eat at one of the restaurants. There are also plenty of seasonal events and outdoor activities.
• Try the downtown open drum circle on Friday nights. (http://www.myspace.com/ashevilledrumcircle) 
• If you are up for a day trip on a windy drive, go to Hot Springs for a dip in a natural spa. Make a reservation before you go. (http://www.nchotsprings.com/)

Side Bars

• Parking in downtown is free on Sundays, although there are no signs to tell you so. Spring and summer are great times to visit. Peak time is around the fall leaves season, when it will be crowded.
• Here's a good website for general Asheville information: http://www.exploreasheville.com/

Follow Me

Now you can follow me, just choose your route. If you're on Twitter, just use the button at the top. Or use the options in the left menu to subscribe to my posts or become a follower. Coming soon, another Biltmore recipes post and finally a travel post about all things Asheville.

Pie Perfection

With record cold temperatures, you are in need for some homemade comfort food. Chances are, in this weather and economy, you're staying home. Whip out the Biltmore cookbook and find two pie recipes: one savory, the other sweet. Assemble, bake and snuggle up.

Chicken Potpie (pg. 150)

You have to love the simplicity of a one dish meal. What makes this recipe unique is the blend of herbs: fresh sage, dried oregano, thyme and basil. And you'll add a cup of Biltmore Chardonnay, which makes for a really nice flavor. The only vegetable in there is peas and I like using the tiny variety.

The greatest thing about this recipe is that it makes enough filling for two pies and usually frozen pie crust comes packaged as two. So you can eat one when you make it and then easily freeze the other filling for a rainy day when you are feeling lazy.

I took a few liberties with this one. It asks you to roast a chicken all day first, but I used the boil and shred method instead to save time. The recipe also has you making individual dishes and cutting the pie crusts to fit, which would certainly be a great option for restaurant style serving. I like the look of the whole pie. I substituted the heavy cream with evaporated milk to reduce the fat amount (but still plenty creamy).

This dish took about an hour, but you are essentially making two meals. And, don't forget that you'll need to add some time to let it cool before serving.

Apple Tart (pg. 120)

You will have to excuse me for flipping back to the fall recipes to make this dish, but I love this tart. This is the third one I have made and I change it a little every time. It is a great dessert for dinner parties because it looks harder than it is.

Break out the mixer that has been collecting dust for this one as you will make your own crust. Arranging the apples is the artistic part. The apples have been tossed with sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. You can skip the sugar, especially if you have in season, sweet fruit. The recipe calls for a streusel topping made from flour, brown sugar and melted butter. This is the part I experiment with every time. I left out the flour this time and I think the brown sugar stands alone just fine.

Once you have this crust down, there are so many possibilities. I can't wait to try this recipe with different fruits like berries or peaches. Mango tarts this summer, perhaps.


Want your own Biltmore: Our Table to Yours cookbook?
Buy it online here: http://shop.biltmore.com/browse.cfm/4,202.html

A Culinary Diversion

I have procrastinated on delivering my promise of a post on Asheville, NC. However, I have a good and related excuse. I recently received a Biltmore House cookbook as a gift and was instantly intrigued by the complicated recipes and the traditional slow cooking methods. This is a no nonsense kind of cookbook in which some of the ingredients require separate recipes. Some dishes take a full day or more to prepare. Part of the appeal of travel for me is to experience different foods and ways of cooking that I might try to replicate back home. It's a way to extend and relive the journeys. This journey felt like one not only to another place, but to another time, when everything was made from scratch on a sustainable farm.

For those of you not familiar with the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, it is the largest home in America with 250 rooms that dates back to the 1800s, originally owned by George Vanderbilt. It is open to the public for tours and sampling of food and wines in the restaurants and the winery. http://www.biltmore.com/

The Biltmore cookbook is divided by seasons. I decided to try to cook my way through the book. However, I'm not going to be a purist in this venture. I'm skipping recipes for ingredients that I don't care for, such as veal and duck. I just can't foresee spending the money on food that I dislike. And some of the recipes call for so much butter and sugar that I felt inclined to make some modifications. Still, the results of everything that I've cooked so far have been fabulous. I thought I would share some pictures and comments about the recipes.

Menu:

Artichoke Crusted Salmon (pg. 108)
Brussel Sprouts with Vidalia Onions and Bacon (pg. 110)
Lemon Grits (pg. 104)






I fixed this meal for a dinner party and it was a big hit. The cookbook did not pair these recipes together, but I think the flavors blended so well that I'll replicate the same menu again.

Salmon: I had to alter this recipe because it called for crab in the artichoke topping and I'm allergic to shellfish. But it stands alone just fine between the artichokes, shallot, garlic, butter and cream cheese. I only made 4 salmon fillets, so I was left with extra topping to use on toast later. Next time I'll process this mixture less so that it will retain some artichoke chunks.

Brussel sprouts: These came out so tender and I think even those who avoid this vegetable would be won over by the bacon and caramelized onion topping. It is tricky not to overbrown the onions. I suggest cooking them longer on lower heat.

Lemon grits: Wow. Very tangy and creamy. The lemon flavor goes very well with fish. I'm not sure how much I would like it with other meats. The recipe calls for lemon zest and 2-3 lemons and 2 seems to be plenty of tang. It also needs enough pepper for balance, determined by taste testing. The mascarpone cheese makes it creamy, but its mild enough not to turn them into cheesy grits.

I also made a rustic apple tart (pg. 120), but we ate it before I remembered to take a picture. It was the second one I've made and I'll likely make another one soon, so I'll post the picture later. You make the dough from scratch and it makes for a pretty dessert. It's very artistic, but simple to make and goes great with whipped cream and some coffee.

Look for future posts on more Biltmore recipes as well as other "Travel Like a Local" guides coming soon.

Apple Heaven

Why the North Georgia Mountains are Special
Peace and quiet. Reconnect with nature. Stock your pantry with all things apple and fill your tummy with homemade apple pies. I visited the area of Blue Ridge, GA this past fall and decided that this journey made for a great annual rejuvenation trip. By next year, I'm sure my apple supplies will be depleted and my spirit will want to return to the woods. Picture an afternoon of hiking followed by an evening with a blanket and a good book while the rain hits the tin roof above you. Yes, this is my idea of "camping".

Where to Stay
I highly recommend renting a cabin from Sliding Rock Cabins (http://www.slidingrockcabins.com/). The accommodations are very comfortable and well maintained. This company is the most pet friendly of any that I have dealt with. There are no pet fees, deposits or weight limits. Cabins come with a large dog bed, bowls and toys. My three pups felt right at home here. Most cabins have hot tubs. The one we rented turned out to be within walking distance of one of the area hiking trails. The website has detailed descriptions of each cabin. Some are more secluded than others. I will ask for information about the driveway entrance and parking next time. The cabin we chose had a very steep drive and only room to park one vehicle. If we had traveled with friends, that would have been an obstacle.

Local Eats
If you stay in a cabin with a fully equipped kitchen, you might choose to grab groceries on the way in and never have to think about dining out (very conducive to hibernating). I actually cheated and made a long pitstop in Asheville, NC (three hours north of this destination, and on my path) to collect food from several of my favorite restaurants. Yes, there will be a future Asheville post.

Toccoa Riverside Restaurant: It is worth the drive to this joint. It's always interesting to find a restaurant out in the middle of nowhere, and this place sits right on an impressive river. The specialty is trout and it is very local; never frozen. Please don't order steak here. It would insult the fisherman and the chef. The outdoor seating area is nice; but only if you've shown up covered with mosquito repellant.
http://www.toccoariverside.com/

Mercier Orchards: I asked a local for advice on where to buy some apples, while imagining a simple roadside stand. He sent me to Mercier Orchards and as soon as I stepped into the large building, I was surrounded by what I now refer to as "Apple Heaven". When in season, you can pick your own on the weekends. But you could spend hours in the store. Apple cider, apple butter, apple cider vinegar, dried apples, apple pies, applesauce. You can sample ciders from different apples from the bar before you buy (winery style). They make all of their products on site, so these goodies have little to no carbon footprint. Plus, this turned out to be a great place to eat lunch. The deli serves salads and sandwiches. Next year, I'll know to go there on the first day to buy a box of apple pies to last the week (well, maybe they'll last that long). And next year, I'll have to take pictures. I was so much in awe on the first visit that I forgot to make use of my camera. http://www.mercier-orchards.com/.

Things to Do

•  Burt's Farm: Take some great pictures and enjoy hugging pumpkins as big as you are. Tiny, huge, orange, blue, bumpy or smooth, you'll see every variety. This place also sells fried apple pies, but they're not as good as Mercier's. However, it is fun to drive from one stand to another trying everyone's version of the dessert. Find the pumpkin patch on Hwy 52 on the way to Amicalola Falls. http://www.burtsfarm.com/default.htm

• Hiking: There are so many trails to choose from in this area. You can explore a new one each day of your trip. The trails in Georgia are well marked, so there's no guessing about which path is the trail and there's a sign at the entrance that tells you the amount of mileage you're in for (something I really appreciate). A must see trail can be found at Amicalola State Park (http://www.gastateparks.org/info/amicalola/). Stop at the information center for helpful information about your options (one route involves 604 stairs, which might not be your idea of a good time). The Appalachian Trail starts from this park (look for the rock marker), so obviously you can make your hike as long as you want from this point. $ Budget tip: parking is free on Wednesdays.

•  One of the other long trails is the Benton MacKaye. This is the trail    we were able to pick up just around the corner from our cabin door. The entire trail is 80 miles and takes you to the Tennessee state line. We hiked part of the 25 mile Duncan Ridge Trail and enjoyed the seclusion since the route is far from highways or populated parks. We only saw two other hikers in three hours.

•  Water Activities: There are several rivers in this area, so kayaking and white water rafting are very accessible options. I have rafting plans for my next trip, but I don't have an outfitter reference for you for this post. I did talk to a store owner in Blue Ridge who personally knows some expert guides, so I'd start there. I would prefer to encounter white water on a float with someone who knows what they're doing.

• Shopping: Downtown Blue Ridge is a quaint area to explore. You can find hand crafted items, antiques and clothing. Seek out turqoise jewlry made by Native Americans and sold at very reasonable prices. Take the scenic train tour from downtown on the weekends.

 Side Bars

• October is probably the best month to visit, when apples are ripe and the weather begins to cool.
• Read the guest book in the cabin on the first day. Previous visitors may give helpful tourist advice. Or, they may mention bear sightings in the back yard.
• The most important packing item is mosquito repellant.

Born Again Cruzan

Why St. Croix is So Special
You will wish you had been born Cruzan. What a magical island. This is the place that I picture in my mind when I need to escape the reality of my daily life. St. Croix is one of the US Virgin Islands. It's not as crowded and does not cater to tourists like some of the other islands. And if you're planning to island hop, this might not be your best option because it is farther south than the other cluster of islands, so hopping is expensive. But really, why would you ever leave? I spent my last trip trying to figure out how to move there permanently... and people often do.


Local Eats

Obviously, I would never consider moving to a place unless there was great food. On my first of two visits to this island, I got a great tip about a vegetarian soul food restaurant in downtown Frederiksted. It's called Yucca's Kitchen. She has a hand written menu of a few items every day to choose from and when it's gone, it's gone. I beg you to try this place even if you're a carnivore. I had the best chili I've ever eaten there and it's the spot to get your fried plantains, fresh fruit juices and spicy popcorn. Portions are large and will probably cover a few meals at a cheap price. You will meet very friendly locals here. I've never run into another tourist. Please tell Ms. Yucca I said hello.

 

I require an excellent coffee shop while vacationing and this is the spot: Polly's (downtown Frederiksted). Once we discovered this place, we were there every morning for a few hours. The owners, Steven and Seth are very friendly and wonderful to talk to. I enjoyed the best espresso since leaving Italy there. They also serve smoothies, ice cream, cocktails, beer and sandwiches. By the end of the week, I called these guys my friends. http://www.pollysatthepier.com/

Best sunset view restaurant: Ono's (Frederiksted)
The food is very creative and the menu changes frequently. Service is good. Vegetarians and meat eaters will be happy with the selections.
$ Budget Tip: Check for coupons around town. Also, there is a bar only menu that offers cheaper options.






Villa Morales
Okay, this is the real scoop. They are only open on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Plan your trip around it. They serve Puerto-Rican and Cruzan food such as plantains, fish, goat, etc. The changing menu is written on a dry erase board at your table. You must try a Johnny cake or two (better yet, get several to go). Tell J.T. I sent you and he'll treat you like family. He is also the master of the mojito.

Things to Do
It's a great place to go and do nothing, but you don't want to miss these beautiful places.

• Day sail trip to Buck Island. The island and reef are protected and when you see the water, it will be hard to believe your eyes (see pic at top of this post). I had a great experience with Caribbean Sea Adventures (http://www.caribbeanseaadventures.com/). Ask for J.P. to be your sailor. $ Budget tip: this company offers a second trip at half price if you decide to go again. I recommend avoiding Buck Island on Sundays because all of the locals head to the island on that day.  
• Hike to the tide pools at Annaly Bay. Soaking in the pools is worth the two mile hike (and free).
• Horseback riding through the rainforest: http://www.paulandjills.com/.

Side Bars

• Racial diversity: as a member of a racial majority, I think it's healthy to experience being in the minority occasionally. When I first visited St. Croix, I expected that the locals would not be friendly, but found that nothing was further from the truth. They treat you like family as long as you remember to begin conversations with "good morning" or "good evening".
• Driving on the left takes some getting used to, but you'll catch on sooner than you think. Just remember that it's left on red there and be careful not to let your autopilot driver take over at intersections. Roads are not marked well, so take a map but be flexible and realize that the island is not very complicated, so you will get there eventually. Also, honking in this culture means "hello", or a signal that they'll let you go first (which happens a lot and makes you a friendlier driver).
• Go in search of roadside fruit and vegetable stands. It's a good idea to do this at the start of your trip so you can stock up for the week (you can't take it with you). It's also a great way to meet people and learn about their own recipes.

About this blog...

I created this blog to share insider information about travel locations. I always spend a few weeks doing web and guidebook research before visiting a new place, but I always find useful tips and cool spots when I'm there that I can't find by searching in advance. It makes me want to revisit the location again once I've learned about the great local places. I usually figure out ways to make the next trip better and more affordable.

So, I'll share this information with you in the hopes that you'll find interesting information that you can't easily find elsewhere. I'll focus on the cultural flavor and on local and organic food spots as much as possible. I will also focus on nature appreciation and activities and will highlight gay friendly destinations. And I'll tell you about the true values. There's nothing worse than paying too much for a unsatisfactory hotel or a crappy meal.


* Disclaimers*

This blog is not for you if:

• you only like to visit places teaming with tourists
• you prefer nightlife over nature
• you are not willing to venture from the well-beaten tourist path
• you seek out McDonald's and Ruby Tuesdays when you travel